El Aeteneo Grand Splendid, one of the world's most beautiful bookstores

The Teatro Gran Splendid, built in 1919 at 1860 Santa Fe in Buenos Aires (seating capacity of 1050) offered live performances of various kinds, including tango artists.  About a decade later, the theatre was transformed into a cinema, and in 2000 a conglomerate leased the building, transforming it into a bookstore for the El Aeteneo chain.  It is estimated that a million people enter the building annually.  During my two visits, I would guess that many of the patrons are tourists (with cameras/smart phones in hand), but there were also lines of people purchasing books.  In particular, the store's bilingual Asi Cocinan los Argentino/How Argentina Cooks, by Alberto Vazquez Prego is a popular item with English-speaking tourists.

Buenos Aires, Our Apartment for Week 1, a Visit to El Ateneo Bookstore, Street Photography

We have safely arrived in Buenos Aires.  We are eagerly/ looking forward to three weeks of utter joy and many discoveries.  We are living in the Palmero district (staying at 1963 Dr. Emilio Ravignani), only blocks from the subte (subterranean or underground) and have about 8 coffee shops within blocks.  In that respect, it feels like the west coast of N. America.  However, using our North American orientation skills, we quickly got turned around, hopelessly.  I finally took out my trusty compass and only then realized that the sun is to the north, not the south.  Important to remember! 

Our apartment has two levels, which means the lower living area is cool and the bedroom loft is rather warm, just the opposite of what we want.  But we have a kitchen for breakfast and a light supper, and we usually eat our big meal out at noon, c. 1 p.m.  Unfortunately, there is a constant flushing sound emanating from above us in the central well, possibly a water tank being replenished?  I would not want to buy this apartment until this is addressed.

Balcony has an outdoor grill (charcoal) and table and bench

View from balcony

Balcony

Handy washing machine and dryer

Sole table area for eating and computer

View from bedroom level

I think there will lots of graffiti available.  I only had the small camera last night and all street lights are a garish orange-yellow.

Subte or Underground, most stations have news stands.

We like some of the underground signs in the subway cars which not only give the stops but also tell the approximate street numbers and important streets between stops.  This helps you plan on the run.

Alley or small street next door at night.

 For our first main meal we had this casserole of beef stew with rosemary etc., covered by mashed potatoes with a foamy cream sauce.  Rich and very sustaining.

 

"Local Restaurant" which is indeed near us. 

Underground entry we use, going under rail road tracks.

News stand in underground

View looking out of an underground car

Nearly full moon with park at night

We made our first major excursion downtown last night.  I wanted to visit El Ateneo, one of the world's most interesting bookstores.  It is in a renovated theatre.  Former "boxes" now have comfortable chairs for reading, former balcony seating has been turned into book shelves, and the stage is now a café, complete with a pianist providing background music.