Av Calbido at night (Palermo, Buenos Aires)

One evening, about an hour after sunset, I walked for several blocks on both sides of Avenida Calbido, in Palermo.  Even though the streets were busy, I did not feel safe using my SLR when by myself, so I used a small pocket camera instead.  The store windows, convenience stores, and even the sidewalks themselves look different after dark.

Fruit and vegetable crates awaiting pickup.  I wish I knew whether it is for recycling, reuse, or landfill.

This seems to be a type of convenience store which also has a pay telephone booth.  As cell phones become ubiquitous, these stores have to adapt.

The national lottery, on the other hand, will (like the poor) always be with us.  These shops abound, stay open until at least 9 p.m., and always have business.

Starbucks has made serious inroads into Buenos Aires, and not only in the tourist areas.  If ever one needs a bagno (not so much a bath as a toilet), buy a coffee.  The bathrooms are always clean.

The juxtaposition of langerie and graffiti is too obvious--artfully designed window display competing with tagging on marble.

Fortunately, I never saw any women wear shoes like these.

This convenience store was wide open to the sidewalk, having no store front glass.  Presumably a sturdy metal gate descends when the store is closed.

Wine and Swiss cheese . . . beat that.

Cafés can stay open well into the night, providing great places for WiFi, reading, conversing.

Small groceries (often called "Chinese groceries" because of their owners, not workers) stay open until 9:00 or 9:30 so that workers can pick up things for dinner on their way home after work.

Some stores staying open prefer to lower their gates with nightfall.  However, there is a small door in the gate which can be opened to admit customers.  One assumes that this complicated safety precaution is there for a reason.

Even at night, graffiti can be artistic.

A young couple, lost in their own world at a pool hall.

This shows petrol prices.  The Argentine peso was trading at about 4.6 to the US dollar during our visit.  Sadly, it was falling once again.  The country seems to have exhausted its supply of dollars and credit.

If women wish to have some beauty aids, etc., this is what they must pay at one of the shops.

This metal shutter is very sturdy indeed, yet has a small window cut out so that you can tell that the store is still open for business.

Tourists being watched (by potential pickpockets) in Buenos Aires

Every major city known as a tourist destination will eventually attract unsavory types interested in making an easy living.  Buenos Aires is quite possibly among the more dangerous of these destinations, although I am certainly not qualified to judge.  When we took up residence in Palermo, the agency warned us that tourists were indeed being targeted in this country with a seriously declining economy.  In fact, the people who rented the complex before us, had four iPhones stolen while walking in the city.  We were warned, but . . . .

Story No. 1:  Granted, only one of us had a smart phone stolen.  This happened when our friend (a guy with athletic build) was riding the "A" line with his wife.  He had been looking at his smart phone and then put it in his pants pocket.  Before long, a guy wandered over and pretended to vomit on them, which prompted two other guys seated across from our friends, to offer immediate 'assistance' in cleaning it up.  While "helping", our friend sort of thought he felt something in the area of one of his pockets but wasn't sure.  Before long, he was sure, but it was too late . . . his phone was gone, the three guys of course did not have it because it had been passed on to someone else.  No amount of yelling produced results, natives could only look on.

Story No. 2:  While enjoying a drink in one of the many Starbucks in the city, a small child, as so often happens, was making the rounds, giving out little cards which he was trying to sell.  Our friend fortunately just happened to see the child's hand reach out for the light backpack on the table beside her.  Our friend's friend grabbed the backpack just in time.  Of course the kid promptly vanished, but fortunately without the backpack.

Story No. 3:  While four of us (three are over 6' tall) were casually strolling into an open park that was possibly a square block in size and quite open, someone from a car stopped at a traffic light suddenly started yelling at us most urgently in Spanish.  We could not understand, but soon got the message:  "Get out of there, something just happened."  I called out to the others in a tone of voice that meant business; we were puzzled, but turned to leave the park (rather than enter it) and waved our thanks to the driver (who by then, with his partner, had actually gotten out of their car, they were so concerned!)  About a block later, we started to smell something foul, and then realized that the smell emanated from one of us!  The people in the car had seen someone squirt some foul vinegar/mustard etc. mixture on two of us (I was the other lucky recipient).  Now we understood their concern!  Within but a short distance more into the park, some 'helpful' guys would surely have come to our 'assistance', pointed out the 'bird goo' on us and offered to help clean us up . . . and undoubtedly gone into at least a pocket or two.  It is a well-known ploy, only you just never think it will happen to you, especially since you are so tall, there are four of you, you are street-wise from years of living in large cities, etc.  Well, dream on.  The goo may not look that bad on this photo, but believe me, it smelled terrible and did not clean off easily.  We made yet another trip to the local laundry guy down our street.  My camera backpack will have to go to the cleaners in Vancouver.

Story No. 4:  Granted, this took place in Uruguay's Montevideo, where four of us spent two days during this visit.  A young kid, possibly about 9 years ago, tried to grab the backpack of one of our women when running past, but the kid picked the wrong gal, who knew how to carry stuff snugly and hold on to it (and is in great physical shape).  What is discouraging is to see children being involved in small crime time after time.  Possibly they are more difficult to prosecute?

Story No. 5:  While two of our friends were starting to enter yet another small park in Buenos Aires, one suddenly noticed two young guys following and possibly eying them.  Our friend turned, faced them squarely, pointed to his two eyes and then to them, signalling that he was aware of them and watching them.  They got a funny sort of spooked look and immediately took off!  They were surprised someone was 'wise' to them.

Although the next tale is hardly in league with the above stories, I should say that I have repeatedly been approached by local honest citizens who are sincerely concerned about my SLR camera attracting unwanted attention.  I have usually only understood the tone and gist of their concerns, but have always thanked them and put my camera away.  The tourist season proper has not yet begun, so I suppose I do stick out.  (Come on, I know I stick out.)  I have seen possibly only three other SLRs during the past three weeks, and I know that this type of expensive equipment screams out "Tourist!", even to the uninitiated.  Even I have noticed these people.  But what to do?  One wants to take the best photos possible because, in my case, this will probably be my only visit to Argentina.  I have adapted, in my own way, by taking most of my street photos with my small pocket Canon S-95, which still says "tourist" but in a less urgent manner.  I also wear a vest with lots of inner zippered and Velcro-lined pockets which will at least alter the rhythm of local pickpocket artists.  The other thing I see is lots of locals wearing the backpacks on the front.  It may be awkward, but you have a better notion of what is happening, and the pack is less likely to be slit and entered.

This blog entry is not intended to discourage anyone from visiting Argentina, for it is a beautiful country with so much to offer tourists.  I only want to remind travelers how important it is to be careful, wherever they may be.  The 'artists' will forever be one step ahead of us, of course, but with careful attention and a bit of luck, we might only be observed, sized-up as potential tourist targets, and not actually targeted.

All of this is hardly news to Argentina's visitors.  Time Out Buenos Aires (Autumn/Winter 2012, p. 160) writes:

Continued economic hardship in Buenos Aires has been linked to a rise in street crime, but with a little common sense and a few basic precautions, visitors should be able to stay out of trouble.  Avoid pulling out a wallet stacked with bills, and try not to flash expensive jewellery and cameras.  Leave non-essential cards and ID at home, loop a leg through bag straps while in restaurants, keep an eye on belongings on public transport (the Subte [underground] in particular) and always use radio taxis [not non-radio taxis].  Although violent crime is rare, bag snatching and slitting sadly, are not.  If you are actually threatened, hand over your goods calmly.  BA has a gun problem.  Light-fingered petty thieves abound.  Distraction thefts are common, such as where one person sprays a mustard-like substance on you while another 'kindly' offers to clean it off--and then clears off with your belongings.

Our troubles threw us off stride for a day, but we then girded our loins and once again sallied forth, wiser and rather more cautious.  In Vancouver, I know what's up and am careful; each city has its own personality.

Cementerio de la Recoleta (Recoleta Cemetery), Buenos Aires

Begun in 1822, the Cementeria de la Recoleta is the oldest and one of the best-known cemeteries in this capital city.  Built along the lines of similar grounds in Europe, the cemetery plots are laid out like city streets, with "houses" lining each street.  Some structures are modest, others were frankly intended to be ostentatious, possibly expressions of competition between families, possibly simply expressions seeking to honour the deceased either as in life or as one had wished had happened during life.  One can study the evolution of architecture from the Neoclassical to the Art Nouveau styles simply by meandering through the streets lined with mausoleums.  You can also take the opportunity to reflect on some of the country's most important politicians, artists, musicians, writers, business personalities and military figures while encountering their resting places.

The Cementerio is open 7:00 a.m. to about 6:00 p.m.  Sunday is a traditional time for families to rejuvenate bouquets of flowers or even sweep out and wash a family mausoleum.  Private guides offer tours for a modest fee, other visitors treat the Cementerio as one might a lovely park in which you go for a stroll.

Looking through decorative iron doors covered with glass, you can sometimes see a family's set of caskets stacked one above the other, covered in sunshine.

This was one of several tour groups that was slowly progressing through the Cementerio's art work and more famous personalities.

As 5:00 p.m. approached that Saturday afternoon, a group of young Catholics had gathered to celebrate Mass in the open air, surrounded by some of the city's departed faithful.

Some 'streets' are wide, accommodating multiple groups and activities, while other 'streets' are but narrow sidewalks, seemingly only wide enough to accommodate the twisting and turning seeking to bring yet another coffin to its resting place.

Some glass doors/windows have been beautifully etched according to the latest style of the day.

This guest was listening to a tour group, but from a distance, taking notes, and pondering what he heard.

When the unbelievable peregrinations of Eva Peron's body finally ended, she was allowed to rest with her family, the Duartes, but not with her husband, who had since remarried.  As politicians with differing leanings came and went, most did not want anything to do with the ever-growing adoration of Evita, articulate champion of the poor.  Consequently, her body even went to Europe for a while before being repatriated.  This is undoubtedly the Cementerio's most famous resident.

It may be against cemetery regulations to feed the resident cats, but a number of elderly women do just that. The cats are entertaining and well-fed.

"We expect the Lord"