September 1, 2012

Basilica Nuestra Senora del Pilar, Recoleta, Buenos Aires

This afternoon we enjoyed a brief visit in the beautiful church, the Basilica Nuestra Senora del Pilar.  This is close to the famous Cimenterio de la Recoleta, where Evita (Eva) Peron was finally buried.  A sign, beautifully painted on tiles, indicates that this church was founded in the early 1700s and elevated to basilica by Pope Pius XI (March 12, 1936).  It is not a large church, holding possibly no more than 300 comfortably on the pews, but with ample open tiled floor for additional seating if required.


I was immediately reminded by the basilica's ornamentation. The the altar and shrines have been strongly influenced by artistic ideals so popular in the Baroque (1600-early 1700s, primarily in Southern Europe).  One is also struck by the amount of gold and silver that has been lavished on the intricate carving.  These precious New World metals somehow managed to remain in South America, not following the untold shiploads of such metals being taken to the Old World.  The altar (below) is covered with pounded silver, an art still being practiced by craftspeople in Argentina.







The various stations of the cross are beautifully placed, decorated, and illustrated on wonderful ceramic tiles.
This shows the 6th Station in which Jesus has difficulty carrying 'his' cross.




Even the raised pulpit is highly decorated with gold-covered carving.  The stairway is hidden, which is a first in my experience (most in Europe have elaborate winding staircases which ceremonially conduct the priest to and from the lectern).



In place of a baseboard covering the transition from floor to wall, this basilica uses the most beautifully painted tiles featuring a rich blue, yellow, orange and subtle green.  It seems as though the colours have survived quite remarkably for being there nearly 300 years.




I like to include at least one transition photo showing people moving between the basilica's interior and the outer world.  I am fascinated by unfailingly enjoying light, regardless of which direction I am heading.  If I am entering a beautiful church, the points of light in the relatively darker interior seem very welcoming indeed and bathe first this part of the wall and then another.  If I leave, I am struck by the strength of the sun.  Light is relative and truly fascinating.