We were far more intrigued by the activities on Calle Defensa ("calle" = Street), which may not be a formal part of La Feria de San Telmo but certainly seems to be contiguous to it. This is an enormous flea market with crafts of all kinds being displayed on blankets laid out on the street, on tables set up along both sides of the street, on stands and easels, and some wares were simply hawked by strolling vendors. Buskers were busy at several corners. According to the map, this market extends for a full kilometer along a pedestrian-only street (during Sunday). When in the market, there is almost no way to comprehend its extent until you have walked for about 20 minutes, all at the pace of the crowd that is looking at everything, and then realize you still cannot see the end of the market.
Yerba maté is one of several national beverages here. A small bowl, often made of decorated wood or wood covered with silver, is filled with this bitter tea-like herb. Hot (but not boiled) water is poured into the leaves, but not too much, letting the leaves absorb the water and release the tea. You then keep adding swallows of hot water. It reminds me of the kind of care one has to lavish on a pipe. Advocates of this drink find it very stimulating (like coffee, yet in a different non-caffinated way--I guess I prefer the jolts offered by strong coffee). Some studies suggest that drinking maté destroys colon cancer cells (now they tell me). This beverage was commonly used before Europeans arrived and is now embraced by everybody. Given the drink's national popularity, you can find countless vendors of supplies for this beverage, including the metallic (preferably silver) straws with a spoon on the end. A number of vendors drank maté throughout the day, and several older women had small carts of thermoses of hot (but not boiled!) water which could be sold to anyone needing a fresh supply throughout the day.
We also enjoyed the numerous tables filled with hand-painted metallic rectangles. These could have your name beautifully painted in wonderfully bright colours, or be used as signs in stores or restaurants. This is something one can easily add to a suitcase.
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| Painter at work |
With untold thousands slowly wending their way through the market, there are many opportunities for selling snacks. Some vendors heat peanuts and coat them with something sweet and salty, all of which is placed in transparent cellophane tubes for ease of eating.
Other vendors stroll the street, often carrying a sign which indicates that you can purchase hot empanadas colombianas, small snack-sized semicircular dough shells filled with various combinations of meats and vegetables. Two would be quite filling, enough to keep one going for several more hours.
Of course, having a beer handy, helps one's thirst. This bottle was being shared by friends at the conclusion of the market (much like maté is a communal/shared beverage).
Here are some shots of other things being sold. I especially liked the chess sets so cleverly handmade, using ecclesiastical, historic, peasant and other figures.
Tango is big here--really, really big.
Leather goods also abound. These leather wine bottle holders were interesting. They help keep the wine cool during the hot summers.
Outdoor markets attract street performers, including magicians in black top hats, and a man with a puppet controlled by strings, acting out a mournful song while falling into a drunken stupor.
One particularly energetic little band attracted attention on a street corner. They were good musicians, more than willing to sell their CDs and pass the hat.
Several vendors set up a small ping pong table to amuse themselves. Every time I walked by, the table was busy.
Since strolling pedestrians are focusing on wares being sold, street entertainment, or on each other, I was able to take some photos of individuals absorbed in their own worlds.
As we left the various fairs, main streets suddenly seemed quite grand and certainly deserted. But everything will change in but a few hours.
