September 18, 2012

Cementerio de la Recoleta (Recoleta Cemetery), Buenos Aires

Begun in 1822, the Cementeria de la Recoleta is the oldest and one of the best-known cemeteries in this capital city.  Built along the lines of similar grounds in Europe, the cemetery plots are laid out like city streets, with "houses" lining each street.  Some structures are modest, others were frankly intended to be ostentatious, possibly expressions of competition between families, possibly simply expressions seeking to honour the deceased either as in life or as one had wished had happened during life.  One can study the evolution of architecture from the Neoclassical to the Art Nouveau styles simply by meandering through the streets lined with mausoleums.  You can also take the opportunity to reflect on some of the country's most important politicians, artists, musicians, writers, business personalities and military figures while encountering their resting places.

The Cementerio is open 7:00 a.m. to about 6:00 p.m.  Sunday is a traditional time for families to rejuvenate bouquets of flowers or even sweep out and wash a family mausoleum.  Private guides offer tours for a modest fee, other visitors treat the Cementerio as one might a lovely park in which you go for a stroll.




Looking through decorative iron doors covered with glass, you can sometimes see a family's set of caskets stacked one above the other, covered in sunshine.


This was one of several tour groups that was slowly progressing through the Cementerio's art work and more famous personalities.





As 5:00 p.m. approached that Saturday afternoon, a group of young Catholics had gathered to celebrate Mass in the open air, surrounded by some of the city's departed faithful.


Some 'streets' are wide, accommodating multiple groups and activities, while other 'streets' are but narrow sidewalks, seemingly only wide enough to accommodate the twisting and turning seeking to bring yet another coffin to its resting place.



Some glass doors/windows have been beautifully etched according to the latest style of the day.



This guest was listening to a tour group, but from a distance, taking notes, and pondering what he heard.





When the unbelievable peregrinations of Eva Peron's body finally ended, she was allowed to rest with her family, the Duartes, but not with her husband, who had since remarried.  As politicians with differing leanings came and went, most did not want anything to do with the ever-growing adoration of Evita, articulate champion of the poor.  Consequently, her body even went to Europe for a while before being repatriated.  This is undoubtedly the Cementerio's most famous resident.


It may be against cemetery regulations to feed the resident cats, but a number of elderly women do just that. The cats are entertaining and well-fed.


"We expect the Lord"